"Good food, good wine, and good company, that's really all you need," said Kathy Grano of New Vernon, who is a regular at Le Petit Chateau and enjoyed Cutaneo's afternoon barbecue with her husband, Joe, chairman and CEO of UBS PaineWebber and former chairman of the U.S. Homeland Security Advisory Committee.

"Eating should be social," Joe Grano added. "The reason we go to Scott's restaurant is not only the food—which is excellent—it's also because Scott really enjoys cooking and the fun he has extends to the whole place. That's the same way it is here today."

Cutaneo's love of cooking was evident in his home, where he put together a spread of herbed green salads, la cense flank steak marinated in clear French dressing, grilled vegetables, and a mixed berries dessert. As he prepared his meal in front of his six guests, they sipped Pama-tinis (with pomegranate) and Musca-tinis (with muscat grapes).

It was not your typical summer soiree, where dozens of guests sprawl across a backyard as someone works the grill to load up a platter of burgers and hot dogs. But in many ways, that's what made it a more memorable occasion. "This is a very special way to spend an afternoon," said Carl J. Goldberg of Randolph, chairman of the Meadowlands Sports Authority. A connoisseur of French cooking, he attended with his wife, Mary Ellen. "As much fun as we have at the restaurant, it's even more fun in a relaxed atmosphere like this."

From Cutaneo's perspective, the only difference was the location. "Cooking is an expression of your heart no matter where it is," he said. And because he wants to pay close attention to each detail of the food—and to the conversation—Cutaneo makes it a point to keep his parties small. "I prefer an intimate group because you want to share your life with them," he said. "It is easier to give the proper attention to each and every one of your guests."


During most of the year, Cutaneo goes with hearty meals. But once the temperature rises, his menu plan changes. "It's usually really hot outside and everyone just wants to go in the pool or just hang out in the sun. That's why you want to have lighter foods so people can just enjoy them at their pace and lay back and have fun."

At this particular event, however, the rain made the calls. A downpour kept everybody inside, around Cutaneo's broad food-prep area in the middle of his kitchen. "We make the most of the food and the company," said Alice Jurist of Mendham, who with her husband, David, founded a research institute at Hackensack Medical Center.

"You still can't help but be enthused," said David Jurist, who is also co-president of the Tomorrows Children's Fund. "And I do think the small group helps."
The weather did not stop the group from breaking bread outdoors. As they huddled under a broad umbrella at the table on Cutaneo's back terrace, they shared stories of travel, philanthropic work, and, of course, their favorite "Scott stories." In that category, the Jurists told of the time they called him in Thanksgiving morning because one of their son's friends turned off the oven that was roasting the turkey overnight. "I even had to revert to my mom for that one," Cutaneo said.

As the guests chowed down, raving about the food and chatting late into the afternoon amid Bruce Springsteen music, Cutaneo was in his element. And unlike evenings at Le Petit Chateau, when his visits to the dining room are cut short by work that needs to be done in the kitchen, he could linger with wife, Jacki e, and his guests—all in the midst of rainfall. "There is one true constant in life and that is time will pass and everyone will make the most of it," he said, adding that you should always be prepared to roll with what you can't control. "You just need to change your focus and not let your guests catch on to your disappointment in the weather, and make sure everyone is still having a good time."

He seemed to succed in that. "What other chef in the world could have gotten his clients out here in this monsoon?" Joe Grano asked. "His passion is infectious."

So for this year's summer shindig, try keeping it small. And in addition to savoring the fare and the friends, try enjoying the raindrops, torrential as they may be.



Prep Show

With his kitchen at the center of his Bernardsville home, it was easy for guests to gather around Cutaneo as he worked his magic—and take in some of his
secrets. A few tips from the chef:

-Always tear greens with fingers—not a with knife—as it lessens the probability of the greens not oxidizing and keeps you from crushing them.

-Grilling peppers and peaches caramelizes the sugar, adding sweetness to
the grilling.

-It's very important to store grilled meat on rack, as to not let it sit in warm juices.

-The acid in the marinade (in this case, cider vinegar) is what aids in tenderizing by breaking down the connective tissue. The longer you leave the product in the marinade, the more tender it will be, though there's a fine line between tendering and loss of flavor, especially in a lean cut.

-Before grilling, clean the grill with a towel dipped in salt water or oil.
The three most important steps: hot, hot, hot. The grill must be very hot, and preheated.

-Meat should be used within three days of purchase, and cooked rare or medium-rare for optimum flavor.

-When grilling meat other than a hamburger, it’s important to turn the product frequently, as the blood runs away from the heat, and helps to further tenderize

LA CENSE FLANK STEAK
In a clear french dressing

Ingredients:
Dressing
1/2 lb sugar
1/2 fl oz paprika
1/3 fl oz salt
1/2 fl oz celery seed
1/2 fl oz dry mustard
1 t white pepper
1/2 qt cider vinegar
4 fl oz fresh lemon juice
3/4 cup fresh onion juice
1/3 fl oz Worcestershire sauce
1 qt salad oil

2 lbs each of La Cense flank steak
(www.lacensebeef.com), a thin, flat steak with a distinct grain that runs the length of the meat, flank
steaks come from the belly area, and are chewy with beefy flavor
2 lbs peppers, seeded and cut lengthwise
4 peaches cut into 1/2-inch slices

Method:
For the dressing, measure all dry ingredients and blend together well. Blend vinegar, fresh lemon juice, onion juice, and Worcestershire sauce well. Add dry ingredients and mix well. Beat mixture gradually and consistently—setting a mixer with a wire beater on medium—into the oil until sugar is dissolved and all ingredients are blended. There is a tendency to separate, so stir well before each use. Hold covered and refrigerated in stainless steel or plastic container. Makes 2 qts. Prepare a day in advance for best flavor; it can be saved for a week to ten days.

Take steak out and dry it. Marinate in the clear French dressing for 8 to 12 hours. Remove from marinade and drip dry. Put on hot grill and lightly season with salt and pepper. For a diamond-pattern score, offset by starting at “2 o’clock” then change to “10 o’clock,“ then turn and cook to a 115° internal temperature. Remove from heat and let sit on a wire rack for 10 minutes. To serve, slice perpendicular to the grain on a 45° angle.

Brush peaches and peppers (and other vegetables of choice) with some of the clear French dressing and grill, scoring in the same diamond pattern as the meat. Serve with the steak.

HERBED GREEN SALAD
with tomato fan & lemongrassc itronade

Ingredients:
Mesclun greens
Mint
Basil
Chives
Cilantro
Tarragon
Citronade
1 chopped stalk of lemongrass
1 Kaffir lime leaf or zest of 1 lime
9 oz lemon juice
3 T sugar.
Salt and pepper
3 oz olive oil

Method:
Steep lemongrass and lime for two hours in lemon juice. Strain and add sugar and salt and pepper to taste. Mix three parts lemon juice to one part oil.

Lightly drizzle dressing over greens but only add to greens when ready to serve, as the acid from the lemon juice will burn the greens.

Thinly slice tomato and spread out in fan shape inside a ring mold—dress
tomato lightly with dressing to help hold shape.

Fill tomato-lined ring mold with greens.

Martini Time

PAMA-TINI
1 1/4 oz Pama (pomegranate liqueur)
1 1/4 oz Stoli Ohranj
1 oz sweet and sour mix

Glass: Martini
Method:
Shake and strain
Garnish: Orange wedge and pomegranate seeds

MUSCA-TINI
2 oz Ciroc Grape Infused Vodka
1.5 oz white grape juice
.5 oz Triple Sec/Cointreau

Glass: Chilled martini glass
Method:
Chill, shake well, and strain
Garnish: Three or four frozen muscat grapes